Athens: This may just be Greece's last evening before it is plunged into economic chaos.
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But it's a balmy summer evening in the centre of Athens, and the cafes and street stalls are doing a booming business. And as a Greek philosopher once wrote, "there is nothing permanent except change".
It's past 10pm, Sunday night in Syntagma Square, and the anti-austerity protest shows no sign of flagging.
Under her now-moderately-famous 'Unf--- Greece' placard (U2 use it in their current tour), veteran protester Panagiota Bletas is straightforward about exactly how her country should be 'unf---ed'.
"We need to fight austerity," she says. "The whole of Europe, not just Greece. Nations can't live under these conditions."
Austerity has left her country ravaged by unemployment and many remaining wages below the poverty line, she says. Money that comes into Greece leaves straight away, back into the pockets of its creditors.
"These are war conditions."
Around her on the city's main square, round the corner from the Parthenon, thousands of young and old mill about, chatting about this or that, clapping along to the music, arguing passionately about politics, or taking selfies in front of banners.
This is not an angry protest, but a determined one.
They know that time is running out. This time maybe for real.
"I think there are more expectations now, on every side – everyone knows this is coming to an end, one way or another," says political blogger Michalis Panagiotakis.
The Greek crisis has been a moment that never quite happens. Eurocrats are experts at kicking cans down roads, and each time Greece's economy has circled the plughole there has been a brief splash of cash from the European money tap.
But Greece's newly-elected Syriza party brought a new bravado to negotiations. Insults have been thrown on both sides.
Finance Minister Yanis Varoufakis wrote in a fiery blog post last week that Europe's insistence on further cuts to pensions was "tantamount to turning families into the streets".
And the International Monetary Fund's Christine Lagarde complained "the key emergency is to restore the dialogue with adults in the room" – responding to PM Alexis Tsipras' claim the lender bore "criminal responsibility" for his country's problems.
On Sunday the phone lines between Athens, Berlin, Paris and Brussels ran hot, as Mr Tsipras and other European leaders tried to stitch together a bailout deal ahead of a key summit on Monday.
The received wisdom is that if this summit does not strike a deal, then there is no hope of avoiding a Greek default on a €1.6 billion IMF loan, due to be repaid by the end of June. And if the loan is not repaid, Greece is likely to crash out of the euro and perhaps even the EU.
International lenders are holding "hostage" €7.2 billion of new bailout cash, which will be released when Greece agrees to an economic reform package.
However on Sunday the possibility was flagged that leaders could reach a broad, "in principle" deal on Monday, and hammer out the details at the very last minute when the loan is due.
Neither side wants Greece to leave the eurozone. And there is said to be just a few billion euros difference in the reform packages being proffered.
But it's not about the money, says Panagiotakis.
"It's political, it's about who has control. If Syriza is seen as giving in to their demands, then they have no reason to continue in government.
"Syriza – and Greece – doesn't want a deal where something is given now but taken away again in three months time. Syriza wants a deal, even with compromises, that allows them to continue with policies without being kept hostage."
Syriza's negotiators are also painfully aware that concessions that would be broadly acceptable to the Greek public may prove unacceptable to its own MPs.
Depending on the degree of movement, they could lose as many as 20 MPs from their fragile coalition.
But if they secure a lasting deal, rather than a temporary fix, they will have achieved what many thought impossible.
"My neighbours, friends and family say if Syriza can deliver just 20 per cent of what it promised, it will be in power for 20 years," Panagiotakis says.
But the mood at the protest was that "rupture" with Europe was vastly preferable to more government spending cuts.
"The cost of living is rising, business life has been 'disappeared', there's no development," says Bletas. "If we don't succeed [in getting a better deal] it's not worthwhile to stay in Europe. It's like we bought a bad franchise."
