Harden Murrumburrah Express

Fawlty Towers fans, this Aussie hotel dinner is the chaos you crave

Leura Gardens Resort is the ideal place for a nostalgic romp.

Leura Gardens Resort.
Leura Gardens Resort.
Saffron Howden
Updated April 30, 2025, first published April 26, 2025

Before being seated diners are warned to refrain from fondling the staff. But that doesn't stop the waiters going in for a back rub while you eat, climbing between your legs during the mains, or standing on your table.

Rats* are not out of the question, nor are bursts of violence and shouting from the hosts - and guests may be told to "shut up" more than once.

In the chaos of the Leura Gardens Resort dining area, set a few streets back from the plunging sandstone cliffs of the Blue Mountains World Heritage-listed national park, jaws ache with laughter.

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It's the perfect setting for a Fawlty Towers tribute show, bringing back the iconic and absurd 1970s sitcom characters Basil, his wife Sybil and long-suffering waiter Manuel in their dysfunctional management of a fictional drab English country motel set in the seaside town of Torquay in Devon.

Like being on set

The seasoned actors are part performers, part hosts and much of the dialogue is ad-libbed as they move between shared tables of diners in an endless repartee of mishaps and misunderstandings.

"Right!" Basil Fawlty barks frequently, channeling actor/writer John Cleese's famous portrayal of the cantankerous hotelier with scary precision.

"Yes, dear?" is his refrain each time Sybil castigates his incompetence in her signature nasal tone (of barely concealed contempt).

Leura Gardens Resort.
Leura Gardens Resort.

And, of course, the ever-baffled Manuel invariably responds with "Que?" whenever Basil issues a clipped instruction.

On 2025 opening night of the Faulty Towers the Dining Experience at the resort - this year marks half a century since the show first aired on television - a diner asks Basil for butter to spread on her starter bread roll.

He returns with a fist full of wrapped butter portions and unceremoniously throws them on her plate, before storming off.

Another guest is invited to lunge at Manuel's serviette in a mock bull fight, while his nether regions are protected with a plate borrowed from a diner and shoved down the front of his pants.

(Don't worry, he wiped it with a cloth before returning it to the table.)

Basil, meanwhile, at one point ends up with a plastic fish wedged between his bottom cheeks and the chef's false teeth go missing and must be foraged out of soup bowls.

Actors playing Basil and Sybil.
Actors playing Basil and Sybil.

And Sybil exercises her voice box by singing "happy birthday" with operatic gusto to three of the guests.

The performance is peppered with references to the original TV show - including a loose rat.

Even the war that shall not be mentioned gets a mention.

Creamy, filling goodness

The set menu accompanies the entertainment perfectly. It is hearty and filling (there's no Waldorf or Ritz salad) and all very creamy, sitting heavily in the gut like all good British stodge.

But it works. And allowances are made for vegetarians and gluten-intolerants.

The cream of cauliflower soup entree and chicken supreme or gnocchi main, followed by a white chocolate brulee or panna cotta, are the perfect complement to a nostalgic romp in 1970s English comedy. So too is the accommodation.

The Manuel character in action.
The Manuel character in action.

Leura Gardens Resort, built in 1970, is reinventing itself after a series of ownership changes. The 92-room motel joins the fancier Fairmont Resort and Leura Golf Club nearby under the Schwartz Family Company banner. With a fresh lick of paint, refurbished bathrooms and furniture, the studio and family rooms, along with self-contained apartments, are clean and comfortable.

The room door might stick a little as you pull it closed and the narrow walkways overlooking the car park are single file only, but it's all part of the charm.

There's a solar-heated outdoor swimming pool which looks beautiful in the Blue Mountains mist, but I'd be keen to test the warmth in mid-winter.

And a gym, barbecue area, guest lounge with games and conference facilities make this a convenient but affordable stay, just a couple of minutes' drive from Leura village, its cafes and boutiques.

Katoomba's famous Three Sisters rock formations, stunning clifftop walks and Scenic World rides are just a few minutes further on.

An English country garden

The resort's real treat is the nearly two hectares of landscaped English country garden, developed in the 1920s by Lady Mabel Fairfax and her gardener, Hector Hood.

Bordering manicured lawns are flower beds, English oak, silver birch, scarlet oak, linden trees and rhododendrons, as well as Japan-inspired later additions like the Shogetsu cherry, purple-leafed maple and weeping elm.

There's even a babbling brook and rock pool.

The giant outdoor chess set.
The giant outdoor chess set.

A game of giant garden chess is another way to enjoy the fresh Mountains air on site but, if it's raining in a nod to English weather, there's table tennis inside.

The grounds will be opened to the public for guided tours during the annual Leura Gardens Festival in spring when the pink water lilies and daffodils bloom.

And more motel refurbishments are afoot, including a restaurant redesign.

But my advice is to book and stay when you can be happily abused by Basil or serenaded by Sybil over dinner and a glass of wine or three - then tour the gardens the next day after breakfast.

*Not real rats

TRIP NOTES

Getting there: Leura is a 90-minute drive west of Sydney, or a similar journey by train. It's best to have a car in the Blue Mountains. Taxis are few and far between, and public transport beyond the train line is limited. Though, there is a hop-on, hop-off explorer bus for tourists.

Staying there: Rates at Leura Gardens Resort are from $188 per room, per night, with nine options available, including self-contained studio apartments, as well as accessible and pet-friendly rooms.

See the show: Faulty Towers the Dining Experience is $95 per person (group bookings are available). Dates for the show are May 29, June 11, July 25 and August 14.

Explore more: leuragardens.com.au

The writer was a guest of Leura Gardens Resort.

Saffron Howden
Saffron is a journalist, editor and author with more than 20 years experience covering news. Get in touch: saffron.howden@austcommunitymedia.com.au