Encounter natural wonders in the Caribbean, beyond the white sand beaches

On Costa Rica's Caribbean slope, natural wonders go far beyond white sand beaches.

Nestled in an old banana plantation, a protected forest boasts endless shades of green. At first, I only see a couple of frenzied hummingbirds, but the dense tropical jungle hides camouflaged caimans and stealthy jaguars. I stay quiet only to realise that silence doesn't exist here. Thousands of critters, in a harmonious chorus, remind me that I'm in a biodiversity hotspot.

I'm here at Selva Bananito because of a friend. "It's wild," he said, "it's all about nature and conservation. You'll love it." When someone with whom you share a passion for wildlife makes a recommendation like that, you take it. That's why, with more trust in my friend than a meticulous plan, I rent a car in Costa Rica's capital San Jose and head east towards the province of Limon. Little do I know, while driving a small city sedan, that I'm about to venture on roads that fade into rivers. I'm not aware, either, that saying goodbye to mobile signal, air conditioning and power outlets is part of the deal. Spoiler alert: turns out they're not such basic needs. Not even sealed windows in the tropical rainforest are.

It's not often that a story about the Caribbean turns its back on the ocean. Nor is it often that a family estate trades profitable logging for conservation. This is one of those exceptional cases: a beautifully stubborn project, not far from idyllic beaches, in which the protagonist is nature reclaiming what's hers.

Like most private lands along the Bananito River, the Stein family estate was destined for agricultural and logging activities. It was precisely with that idea that Rudi Stein bought the land in the 1970s. Back then, even in environmentally praised Costa Rica, the idea of making the bush profitable was much more common than conserving it.

The story of Selva Bananito Lodge begins with a family feud. Rudi's plans for the property had more to do with plantains and fine woods than with forest bathing and camera traps. His children, nonetheless, had a different take. Moved by the terrifying roar of each fallen tree, Jurgen and his sisters were determined to change their father's line of business.

It took almost 10 years for the siblings and their mother to succeed, but in 1994, two-thirds of the family land was declared a biological reserve. At last, 640 hectares of forest had a respite. No more banana plantations like in the 1920s nor selective logging like in the 1970s. It was time to step back and let the ecosystem recover. With the dual purpose of financing operating costs and amplifying the conservation message, the lodge opened its doors a year later. Featuring cabins built with discarded wood, architecture that prioritises natural ventilation, and self-generated electricity from solar and hydro, Selva Bananito has since committed to a regenerative tourism model.

The lodge welcomes me with the soothing sound of running water. Also with the possibility, never the promise, of seeing toucans, glass frogs and jaguars. The latter is unlikely, yet feasible. Selva Bananito is part of a biological corridor that aims to create space for jaguars to roam freely and ensure a genetically viable population. "Big cats are certainly around," says Jurgen who runs the lodge he helped found roughly 30 years ago. During the welcome presentation, which takes place in the communal lounge, Jurgen shares footage of camera traps placed deep in the forest. "Even more impressive than all the wildlife you can see here is all the wildlife that can see you."

After a set dinner menu that accommodates dietary restrictions, it's time for bed. In my cabin I don't have power outlets nor internet access. A couple of low wattage lamps and a mosquito net around my bed will do. The balcony, which merges with the room when fully opened, promises fresh air and stars that don't need to compete with urban lights to glow.

For a change, I wake up before the sun does. I'm not the most joyful morning person, but the early bird catches the worm. I'm signed up for a sunrise birding tour around the lodge. What's on the wish list? American pygmy kingfishers, king vultures and snowy cotingas. What's out there? We're about to find out.

You don't need much more than to walk around the lodge to see colourful frogs and stick-bugs, but that doesn't mean there aren't plenty of things to do in the reserve. Jurgen makes it clear that there's always more to do in Selva Bananito in terms of activities and conservation, and often the two go hand in hand. The experiences offered by the lodge include tree planting and trips with the crew to change camera trap batteries. An overnight activity, called Following the Footprints of Wild Cats, allows guests to camp deep in the jungle. Not only is this a great opportunity to see nocturnal wildlife, but it's also a great deterrent to poachers.

Selva Bananito faces two direct challenges: poaching and illegal logging. Because of timing, camping is out of the question for me. Luckily, there's something I can do to prevent illegal logging: join a pilot on their gyroplane. The contraption looks like a toy straight out of a cereal box, but on steroids. "Is that even safe?" I think to myself. Next thing I know, I'm wearing a flight helmet and overlooking the Caribbean at 2000 feet.

Recreational flights and conservation rarely fit together, so I can't help but ask. "Our gyroplanes consume on average 15 litres of fuel per hour," says Jurgen. "We work together with the Ministry of the Environment and our monitoring has helped dismantle three large logging mafias. That has prevented more CO2 emissions than our flights combined."

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Thinking short term, agriculture or logging are way more profitable for a land this size. However, short term leads to no big cats, no snowy cotingas and no biodiversity hotspot. Jurgen is aware that our absolute absence would likely be best for the environment, but he's also aware that we're here. We might as well do things right. If we're lucky, one day we might see a jaguar.

Getting there: Oneworld airlines connect Sydney and Melbourne with San Jose via Dallas or Los Angeles. LATAM does too via Santiago de Chile. From Costa Rica's capital city, take a shuttle or rent a car and follow instructions from Selva Bananito.

Staying there: Selva Bananito Lodge offers bed and breakfast, full board and all-inclusive rates. The latter consists of all meals plus one standard tour per day. Additional and premium tours, such as gyroplane flights, can be arranged with an extra cost. Internet access and power outlets are only available in the main lounge. From $US200 ($300) per night for two people, minimum two-night stay.

Explore more: selvabananito.com

The writer travelled courtesy of the Costa Rican Tourism Board.