The beautiful Bordeaux is bursting with new energy

Bordeaux is both a region and a city: not just any region but arguably the most important wine growing region in the world, which also happens to surround the beautiful neoclassical city of the same name in the southwest of France. And while it may be a mecca for wine lovers, Bordeaux also has much to tantalise foodies, architecture fans, history buffs and all-around connoisseurs of the French good life.

Here are some insider tips on how to make the most of your visit. Let’s start with the city and move outwards from there.

With its honey-coloured 18th-century limestone buildings framing lively squares and car-free streets, Bordeaux is the world’s largest UNESCO heritage-listed urban area but it’s certainly not frozen in the past. Its riverside parklands have replaced old wine warehouses and its new green neighbourhoods dotted with edgy art projects have repurposed decaying buildings while the new TGV high-speed train whisks you here from Paris in just over two hours.

Start your day at the whimsical Miroir d’Eau, the world’s largest reflecting pool, at the Port de la Lune. Symbolising the best of old and new Bordeaux, the Water Mirror reflects the sublime semi-circle of neoclassical buildings of the Place de La Bourse, when it’s not misting or squirting tiny fountains that delight children on hot summer days. Next, stroll along the river to the Cite du Vin, Bordeaux’s wine cultural centre, located in a whimsical tower that looks like the swirl of wine in a giant’s glass. Its multi-sensory exhibits blend the thrill of a theme park with the state-of-the-art exhibits of a great museum, while its rooftop bar offers wine-tastings from around the world and panoramic views of the city. 

Take a sleek 21st-century tram back towards the city centre, stopping off to explore the antiques stores, design shops and cafes along village-like Rue Notre Dame in the former wine merchants’ neighbourhood of the Chartrons. Then walk through the Place des Quinconces, with its exuberant Girondins Fountain, to the Place de la Comedie, the epitome of an exquisite city centre created during the Age of Enlightenment. On one side is the Corinthian-columned Grand Theatre and on the other is the grand InterContinental Bordeaux hotel. Gordon Ramsay’s two-Michelin-starred Le Pressoir d’Argent anchors the hotel while Philippe Echtebest, host of the French-language version of “Kitchen Nightmares” rattles the pans at Le Quatrieme Mur beside the theatre. Nearby in a striking triangular building, the Bordeaux Wine Trade Council offers wine workshops and the classy Bar a Vin, where you can taste dozens of Bordeaux wines by the glass at very reasonable prices. To buy wines, visit the nearby L’Intendent wine shop. Just remember as you climb its spiral staircase, the prices head into the stratosphere.

Bordeaux’s nearby Golden Triangle is formed by three grand boulevards which inspired Baron Haussmann when he remodelled Paris in the 19th century. Explore the finest fashion boutiques, chocolatiers and fromageries here before walking the polished marble slabs of Rue St. Catherine, the longest pedestrian street in Europe, which cuts through Bordeaux’s Old Quarter. Wander its narrow Medieval streets to discover tiny shops, intimate wine bars and chef-owned bistros with tables set out on the cobblestones. 

Some of Bordeaux’s finest next-generation restaurants include Cent33, and Miles, not to mention wine bars such as Aux Quatre Coins du Vins and Max Bordeaux. Above them all rise the gorgeous 15th century Gothic structures of La Grosse Cloche and La Porte du Caillou and the freestanding belltower of St Michael’s Basilica. 

Now it’s time to head into the vineyards to discover Bordeaux’s exquisite wine chateaux. Bordeaux means “on the edge of the waters” and its vines dig deep through ancient gravelly and clay soils on either side of the Dordogne and Garonne rivers, which join to form the Gironde Estuary. This is the largest estuary in France and it divides the winegrowing area into the famous Medoc region on the Left Bank (which grows predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon) and St. Emilion and Pomerol on the Right Bank (focusing on Merlot blends). The Bordeaux region has, in fact, 65 appellations (it’s complicated), but first-time visitors should focus on these main ones, as well as Pessac Leognan just south of the city and the sweet wine region of Sauternes further south again.

UNESCO heritage-listed St Emilion anchors the Right Bank, about 45 minutes’ drive northeast of Bordeaux. Its name refers both to the pretty red-tile-roofed village that is reminiscent of an Italian hill town, and Bordeaux’s biggest big-name wine appellation. Vines were first planted here 2000 years ago in Gallo-Roman times. But the town was named after the hermit Saint Emilion whose miracles drew disciples who dug an underground church in his honour, which today is the largest monolithic church in Europe. Over the centuries, monasteries and convents (including the birthplace of the town’s famous coconut macarons) clustered throughout the town.

The Tourist Office offers guided tours, lists which chateaux are open for visits each day and even rents bikes so you can explore the vineyards on your own. And just next door beside a 14th century cloister, the Maison du Vin sells an exceptional range of wine and offers daily wine tastings.  There’s a five-star hotel restaurant, Hostellerie de Plaisance, which commands a stellar view beside the church while its l’Envers du Décor casual restaurant has a pretty courtyard garden. Stay through dusk, when the crowds disappear, to enjoy the sun setting over ancient towers and across some of the finest vineyard land on earth.

The family-owned Chateau Guadet on Rue Guadet right in town offers a delightful tasting and tour of its underground cellars. Or take a beginner’s winemaking program or cooking class followed by lunch with matched wines at nearby Chateau Soutard. 

Along the hillside, you’ll find some of Saint Emilion’s finest vineyards including chateaux Ausone, Pavie, and Angelus. Heading north, you’ll discover more stellar chateaux such as Cheval Blanc and Figeac as well as the striking Jean Nouvel-designed red stainless-steel winery at Chateau La Dominique. Have lunch at its La Terrasse Rouge bistro offering panoramas across a red glass-bauble terrace over acres of immaculate vines.

South of Bordeaux in Pessac Leognan is the region’s best five-star country retreat, Les Sources de Caudalie which, together with Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte across the road, is owned by former French ski champions Daniel and Florence Cathiard. Indulge in their signature vinotherapy spa treatment, relax by the indoor and outdoor pools, and choose between three delightful restaurants including the two-Michelin-starred La Grand’Vigne. Make time for a tasting tour of the ivy-covered Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte and admire its contemporary sculpture collection amid the vines. You can even spend a day as vineyard manager or cellar chief. 

Head further south again to explore the Sauternes appellation, with its unctuous sweet wines. Two chateaux have exceptional experiences. You can enjoy a Michelin-starred meal complete with Lalique crystal and a five-starred hotel experience at Chateau Laufaurie-Peyraguey or contemporary bistro far in a converted chapel in nearby Chateau Guiraud.

Saving the best for last, head north of the city to the Medoc region where some of Bordeaux’s most famous wine chateaux are found in Margaux, St Julien, Pauillac and St Estephe. It’s a closed club ruled by centuries-old tradition, where the best wines are still classified according to an 1855 classification. Together they form the world’s richest Cabernet Sauvignon wine region.

Check out the Neo-Palladian palace of Chateaux Margaux at the end of a long alley of plane trees, whose new cellar is designed by Pritzker-award-winning architect Norman Foster. Chateau Prieure Lichine has no chateau but its vegetation-covered, barrel-shaped winery delivers a comprehensive visitor program seven days a week, including tasting workshops and terroir tutorials. 

Have lunch at the buzzy little bistro, Le Lion d’Or, located in a yellow-shuttered house in Arcins village, where you’ll dine next to winemakers who store their wine in private lockers lining the restaurant walls. Stay at the nearby flower-bedecked chateau Beychevelle, nicknamed the Little Versailles of the Medoc, or enjoy the luxurious rooms and acclaimed restaurant at the glamorous hotel Chateau Cordeillan Bages.

Chateau Mouton Rothschild was one of the first Bordeaux properties to open its doors to visitors. Check out its remarkable art collection to see original artworks by Picasso, Miro, Dali and others who, in a stroke of genius, Baron Philippe commissioned to illustrate the chateau’s wine labels.

Fly: Emirates flies from Sydney to Paris with a stop in Dubai with prices from $1,509. 

Train: From Paris, take the two-hour TGV high-speed train to Bordeaux.

Stay: Hotel Le Palais Gallien is the newest five-star hotel in Bordeaux. 

Currency: 1 Euro equals $AU1.55

Explore more: bordeaux-tourism.co.uk